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The Aloha House: A Feng Shui House Built With Aloha A photolog of the building of a Feng Shui-principled, energy-efficient lakeside log cabin By: Aloha House
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[<< < [1] 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 > >>] [Archive]
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| Friday, 1-Jan-2010 00:00 |
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This is the OPENING Entry with "THE CAST"-Ignore the above date
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The Inspiration House -- "the look" that inspired TAH's building
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The Cove - The Location
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The People Who Will Dwell There
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The Contractor/Builder: Fred Westcott
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The Contractor/Designer: Denise Westcott
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The Onsite Contractor, Mike Hayes, & His Charged-Up Crew
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The Surveyor/Draftsman: Frank Mitchell from MAPCO Engineering
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The Building Company: Green Haven Homes
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The Feng Shui Master/Teacher, Larry Sang, & His Students
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You've heard the oft-said saying, "A picture is worth a 1000 words." Well, here are those very pictures. This fotopage chronicles the building of an energy-efficient lakeside cabin in the San Bernardino Mountains of Southern California by two islanders who wish to tread gently upon this good Earth and help to keep it balanced and healthy.
This fotopage is a labor of Aloha* and multi-purposed, serving as a reference, guide and repository of information for ourselves, our family and friends, especially those in our homeland of Hawai'i, as well as a means of visual and written communication with our builders/designer, contractor and subcontractors, and anyone else who may have more than a passing interest in this house's building.
These pages will also serve as a "history book" -- or "scrapbook," if you will -- of our house building.
It is hoped that this fotopage will also serve as a source of inspiration, as well as a resource for others who share our concerns about the need to reduce our nation's reliance on fossil fuels and are interested in taking the natural steps toward sustainability and environmental responsibility by building energy efficient houses with Aloha. The practice of sustainability is about creating new ways to live and prosper while ensuring an equitable, healthy future for all people and the planet.
To watch the progress, please scroll down to today's date.
Click on the pictures for enlargements.
More info found here:
The Aloha House
- Introduction
- Who We Are - Our Family
- Location
Interestingly and with impeccable timing, a bill has been introduced to the California State legislature in 2004, regarding adding Feng Shui principles to the building code: California Assembly Concurrent Resolution No. 144--Relative to Feng Shui.
These days, I am often asked how can one can learn more about Feng Shui. We have studied under Larry Sang, Sophia Shaul of 168 Feng Shui Advisors, and Lorraine Wilcox at the American Feng Shui Institute (AFSI), as well as Chris Shaul and P.K. Odle at the AFSI online forum. We have come to realize that the study of Feng Shui is a lifetime endeavor, and we remain their students for years to come. To familiarize yourself and see if Feng Shui resonates with you, you may wish to try AFSI's free online seminar here.
Mahalo for visiting our photo-documention of our Feng Shui house-building adventure, with Aloha,
T&D
If you are new to this fotopage: This photojournal is arranged in reverse chronology and the most recent entry is at the top. (Ignore the date on this entry; it just keeps it at the top as an opening page) You may wish to chronologically start from the earliest entry. Click here to get to the ARCHIVES page and work your way up. Or start anywhere your heart desires.
* This is a non-commercial, not-for-profit site. Materials on this web site is to be used for personal and educational purposes only. There is no personal profit motive. Links to external sites, some of which may be commercial or may change in character or quality, are intended for informational purposes only, and do not necessarily constitute endorsement by us. As an ever-evolving work striving for informational and historical accuracy, this web site's content is subject to change without notice.
"Man does not weave the web of life, he is merely a strand in it.
Whatever he does to the web, he does to himself."
~ Chief Seattle, 1854
"For the Lord your God is bringing you into a good landâ??a land with streams and pools of water, with springs flowing in the valleys and hills." Deuteronomy 8:7, NIV
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| Sunday, 29-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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Electrical Rough-in
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For main floor bathroom: over tub and vanity
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Loft bathroom: Between tub and shower
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Casa Vieja fan with bronze lights w/ wall and remote control
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Casa Vieja fan w/maple blades
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Flush Mount Fixture in White
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Cable lighting - check out that PURPLE gyroscope!
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Hi Denise,
Here's our check list of all the outlets and fixtures that we could think of before Peter Fulkerson's rough-in tomorrow. Please feel free to add whatever else is essential and keeps us in compliance with the building code. We are no electrical experts.
Halogen with its excessive UV is detrimental to long-term eye health, so we are avoiding them in areas that require sustained visual activity. Please be sure Peter knows that we do NOT want recessed (canister, canned) halogen lights for areas that are heavily used for working and sustained reading purposes.
Halogen is okay when aimed at things, and not at eyes. Places where halogen is okay include: the puck halogen light in the kitchen and spot halogen lights for artwork.
Also, where possible, we'd like to stick to fluorescent lighting (tubes or those new wiggly fluorescent bulbs that can be used in place of incandescent bulbs) for energy and cost conservation.
We are with All Protection Alarm Security Systems with our RR house and will continue to use their services at the new house. Please ask Peter to rig it so we can call from down-the-hill to turn on the house radiant heating AND the driveway radiant heating. All Protection Alarm Security Systems has a device to do this. If he could coordinate his wiring to accommodate this device after determining the best location for the thermostat on the main floor.
To keep costs contained, after exhaustive shopping at stores (Lowes, Home Expo and Lamps Plus) and online this weekend, we are procuring most of the fixtures, ourselves.
Living Room Square:
- Cove lighting on the wall with the side entrance door.
- Halogen spot lighting for mural artwork on loft bedroom wall that faces the living room (maybe originating from the cove lighting wiring?).
- Outlet, phone jack and TV jack inside the wardrob closet, on the LEFT side. The closet will serve as a storage-hiding place for the rolling media cart with TV, cable box, video, etc.
Click here for details.
- Outlet in the middle of the wall with the side entrance door.
- Outlets and TV jack between the bay window and French doors.
Dining Room Square
- Drop lighting for a chandelier ON A DIMMER in the middle of room and surrounded by four (4) canister (non-halogen) lighting. The dining table will double as a study table and working surface.
- Outlet in the MIDDLE of the square including a phone jack for the computer. WE FOUND A TABLE that allows us to place the outlet in the MIDDLE and NOT off to the side (as Peter and I had discussed if we used a table with a solid pedestal in the middle).
http://www.crateandbarrel.com/itemgroups/518_0.asp
Reading Area Square
- Casa Vieja Fan (black, maple blades, 48" pole) with a light kit with bronze glass with a wall control and a remote control. It will be in the middle of that square.
with Bronze glass lamps:
- Outlet between bay window and French doors.
- Outlet and TV jack in the least conspicuous spot just above the mantle line. If spot (halogen) lighting of the painting, Peaceful Retreat, is not possible, we will resort to a picture light.
Stairwell from Main Floor to Loft Square:
- Outlet for curio between door and nook.
- Outlet and phone jack in nook.
- Outlet on landing (for vacuuming carpeted stairs).
- Outlet in ledge area for Christmas tree.
- to illuminate stairs and book shelves, undetermined cable or track lighting to be likely mounted on dormer wall toward the lake.
Click to enlarge to see purple gyroscope lighting. Mmmmm!
http://eclecticlighting.homestead.com/cablelighting.html
http://www.folletts-lighting.co.uk/images/search/spots_recess/CableKits-Gyroscope.jpg
http://www.ccl-light.com/docs/cable/ecablelitekits.html
http://www.easy-lite.com/productview.asp?CATNUM=1002,1059
Laundry/Wash Room:
- Lighting: flush-mounted fixture:
Click here for details.
- Flush-mounted light-fan: above toilet.
- Outlet for washer/dryer.
- Outlet for sink.
Kitchen:
- Lighting: canned lights (non-halogen) above sink, above working areas.
- Lighting: puck halogen light under top bridge.
- Lighting: undercounter lighting under bridge and wall cabinets.
- Outlet ABOVE the upper bridge and wall cabinets.
- Outlet on the side of the wall kitchen counter.
- Outlet on short wall next to utility room.
- Outlet for refrigerator (also plumbing needed here for icemaker and water dispenser)
- Outlets on each side of the island and within the niche space for the microwave.
- Outlet for under the cabinet with the island's bar sink for its garbage disposal.
- Outlet for curio on wall between door and pantry.
- Outlet at counter height on wall (mountain side) AND light fixture in pantry.
- Outlet for dishwasher and garbage disposal.
Tatami Room Square:
- Lighting: central drop lighting over table-pit:
- Lighting: directional lighting fixture in Murphy Bed closet above the head of the bed (for backlit, bedtime reading, spot on artwork on the closet wall):
Click here for details.
- Lighting: spot (halogen) lighting in the middle of the narrow alcove space between the Tatami Room and kitchen:
- Outlet in the alcove area in the wall with the sliding doors to the outside.
- Outlets on each side of the Murphy bed frame.
Tatami Room (Main Floor) Bathroom Square:
We mixed the traditional Tatami room look with the unexpectedly modern stainless steel sink which will be accented by the as-modern track lighting.
- Lighting: Two (2) directional halogen track-ceiling fixtures:
One is over the bath tub (one spot for in-bath reading, two spots for large print on wall, and one spot for metal cranes) AND the other above the vanity area.
Click here for details.
- Lighting: flush-mounted fixture in the middle of the room:
We chose white fixtures that would unobtrusively blend into the white dry-wall ceiling for a less cluttered, monochromatic look.
Click here for details.
- Lighting: flush-mounted lighting in walk-in closet AND toilet-shower room.
Click here for details.
- Outlet and TV jack between door to Tatami Room and closet.
- Outlet on far side of tub for jets.
- Outlet between mirrored closet and tub.
- Outlet on left side of sink.
- Outlet behind toilet.
Loft Bedroom Square (Front-facing):
- Lighting: for future chandelier in the middle of the square.
- Spot halogen light on artwork above bed.
- Outlets on each side of the bed for lamps.
- Outlets on the half wall.
- TV jack in the corner where sliding doors and half wall meet.
Loft Dormer Bedroom Square:
- Spot halogen light on artwork above bed.
- Outlets on each side of the bed for lamps.
- Outlets on the half wall.
Loft Central Square:
- Flush-mounted fixture in the middle of the square:
Click here for details.
- Outlet in the middle of the floor including phone jack for computer.
- Outlet on kitchenette counter area for microwave and coffeemaker.
- Outlet in the under counter cabinet for dorm refrigerator.
- Outlet between kitchenette counter and bathroom wall (where hutch will be placed).
- Outlet on half wall.
Loft Bathroom:
- Lighting: two (2) directional halogen track-ceiling fixtures:
One over the bath tub (one spot for in-bath reading, one spot for p print on wall, and two spots for shower) AND another above the vanity area.
Click here for details.
- Lighting: flush-mounted lighting in center of the square:
Click here for details.
- Lighting: flush-mounted lighting in walk-in closet.
Click here for details.
- Flush-mounted light-fan in toilet room.
- Outlet and TV jack between door and shower.
- Outlet on left side of sink.
- Outlet behind toilet.
Stairwell to Garage:
Lighting: Flush mounted lights in landing areas.
Click here for details.
Outlet at bottom of stairs area for vacuuming carpeted stairs.
Garage:
- Overhead fluorescent lighting.
- Fluorescent lighting in the utility room and elevator/storage room.
- Outlets along garage walls.
Outdoor Lighting:
Lighted street number sign.
Lighting for small Japanese garden just outside sliding doors in Tatami Room.
Lighting for waterfall outside Tatami Room bathroom.
Lighting as required by code (steps, doors to outside, etc.)
Solar generated lighting wherever possible is preferable on the outside.
Switched outlets under balcony eaves.
Loft Balconies:
An outdoor outlet for each.
Would you print this out for Peter as a checklist to help him as a working aid? Thank you.
Aloha,
D
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| Saturday, 28-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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Kitchen Cabinets, Curio, Electrical Outlets, Overhang/Balcony
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Curio is 36.5" wide and 78" tall.
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Mirrored doors by CW with doors < 3 feet wide.
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Kitchen Cabinet Wall
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From Denise to D:
Hi!
I corrected Marilyns window and cabinet placement and will get a new picture. From the edge of the door to the inside edge of th window is 6' 7". Allowing 3" for casing and 2" setback on each side we are left with a space of 5' 9". With the two 18" cabinets that would leave a space inbetween of 2' 9". The proportions looked about right but lay it out and see what you think. We could always go with 15" cabinets.
I took a picture of the Murphy bed closet.
We have the mechanism here. Also I got a response from Contractors Wardrobe with prices. They don't make a 12' opening door in the 2 diamond door that you have. We would have to go with the 3 Diamond Trimline on a special cut order. The door with the $50 extra for the cut came to $894 without shipping which was more than the quote from Bear City Glass.
You can see that the top deck goes all the way across. We have a temporary rail in place.More emails with pictures coming.
Denise
Reply to Denise from D:
Hi Denise,
We checked out the distances on a measuring tape. With the elimination of the extra window and the corrected placement, the proportions are just fine. The 18" cabinets stay.
I'm not certain what the problem is with the 2 Diamond mirrored wardrobe doors. That they don't make doors that are 3 feet wide? (3 feet per door X 4 doors = 12 feet) The same company made the 2 Diamond doors in 29 inch widths for our other bedroom's doors.
Contractors Wardrobe did these less than 3 feet doors, then. Why not now?
I really DO mind paying the extra for the 3 Diamond Trimline, especially when the mirror beveling is actually NOT desirable for the Tatami Room (simpler is better).
Would you check on this again, given that they've done it before in a width less than 3 feet? Perhaps a miscommunication?
I want you to thank whoever decided to go ahead (Mike? You?) and let the balcony deck go all the way across, as I wanted it from the get-go. This is how it is depicted in the Inspiration House's picture. I could not seem to get Frank or Fred to "get it." The last time we were together, Fred was talking about slats. I gritted my teeth, believing that somehow making the deck go straight across was violating code.
I had resigned myself to less than my envisioned ideal, so this picture comes as a welcome surprise and TREAT. Hooray! This is as I had visualized it! I will be able to enjoy the dam view from the upper balcony! THANKS!!!!!
You've made my day. And yes, it was gloriously sunshiny down here, too. I kept thinking of all those happy skiers up there.
Aloha,
D
From Denise to D:
Hi,
I took a picture of the walls where you said the curio cabinets would go. The blue boxes are where the electrical plugs and switches are set. The wall between the nook and the door has one plug below. I think that can be moved around the corner in the nook area.
The problem is the wall between the door and the pantry. Code requires that the switches lighting the stairs down to the garage be next to the door opening. I am not sure that there is enough space on the other side of the door to put the switches even if we stack them vertically. Code also requires that outlets be placed on all walls at certain rough spacing so the outlet would have to stay.
And another picture of the overhang.
Denise
Reply to Denise from D:
Hi Denise,
Each curio is 37.5 inches wide and 78 inches (6 feet 6 inches) tall. The codes are in place for good reason, so we shall abide by them.
We could change the plugs to flat ones, so the curios are more flush to the wall. The outlets can stay where they are presently placed.
Peter told us that he would also put an outlet in the booknook area (in case that space is used to house stereo equipment, etc). Did he remember to do this?
As for the wall between the door and the pantry: is the space greater than than the 37.5 inch width of the curio? If we put the curio to the wall's rightmost direction, taking into consideration the door trim for the pantry door, would there then be enough room to put the switches on the leftmost direction of that same wall in a vertical configuration? If not, I guess we'll just have to live with a gap between the wall and the curio and reach back there to get to the switches...
The overhang is looking very good. Thank you for the picture.
Aloha,
D
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| Friday, 27-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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Tying Up Loose Ends
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Loft Bathroom Color Palette
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Loft Bathroom Print by CR Lassen
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purple = D
blue = Denise
Hi, Denise!
Thank you for the updates and your excellent communications.
Hi, Darlyne
Today we finally see the sun and blue skies. Refreshing after a week of snow and cloudy days.
KITCHEN WALL CABINETS: Hopefully, three windows (instead of 4) in the kitchen will solve the problem off the 18" cabinets and compressed glass shelf space.
Please ask Marilyn to send me her corrected depiction before the design goes into fabrication. The lower wood bridge is to house the undercounter lighting fixture and the upper wood bridge will house a puck lighting fixture which will cast light downward. Plain and simple designs for the bridges; no frou-frou curves.
God is in the details, and thank you, Denise, for attending to them.
CARPETING:
Please thank Shirley at Carpet Barn for keeping us in the Big Bear market. That speaks volumes that she can beat Lumber Liquidators! I'm all for the Mom & Pop operations that compete without getting greedy.
Hmm, I've never heard of having to put carpeting under tatami. The tatami itself is a floor covering, is it not? It's a good 1 and 1/2 inches thick!
You have to have something to cover the OSB and commercial carpet was the least expensive alternative. Why this requirement? I don't know.
As for the upstairs loft closet being carpeted in purple, well, you won't find me, the purple freak, complaining there.
I agree with you, the utility room should be vinyl. At our office, the bathroom is floored with coved vinyl in granite black pattern, and ten years later, it is still looking great. No dirt shows! So if Shirley will floor that itsy-bitsy room with vinyl like that (that will match the kitchen), we will be happy.
It has been a busy week at work, and so I needed some open time to time to mull over your e-mail of 2/24/04.
TONGUE & GROOVE: Forget the T&G and put that $5000 amount (above the cost of drywall) toward limiting (the budget's) overrun or towards the additional expense of the kitchen granity counter (see discussion below). We can add T&G later, if the open, drywall ceilings end up looking too stark and sterile.
Again, we MUST stick as close to the original budget of the house that we (T, Fred and I) agreed to.
KITCHEN: Marilyn's drawings significantly facilitated the entire process. We love her clever design of lifting up the counter on two pedestals. Of course, our concern is the Feng Shui of doing that. Entering either the facing side's French doors or the side doors on either side (the living room side, in particular), the stove must not be seen. As long as it is not in those sight-lines, the design will work.
T is concerned that the vent behind the stove was not depicted on the design. Is there enough room there?[/purple]
According to Scottie the plumber who has the same unit, yes.
[color=purple]As for the microwave oven, it will not be a built in, but one that we'll recycle from our other house to cut cost. So it needs an opening that will accommodate it with an outlet in back. Was there a micro in Teakwood? At any rate, reusing what we have will be a cost-cutter.
What depth is your microwave? It was a microwave hood.
Again, predictably, as much as I like Marilyn's design, doesn't this significantly jack up the COST, as we are now dealing with significantly more granite? Or am I missing something when I look at the drawing? Did we not agree to limit cost by using a non-granite slab on the non-visible from the front, working surface in the stove area?
Aesthetically, all granite slabs would just make her design fabulous, and if money were no object, I'd say, "Go for it." But, a big BUT, realistically, does it keep us within our originally agreed upon budget?
We are still dealing with the same 4x9 cooktop area that will be in granite tiles. The difference is that the counter is held up by feet instead of a solid wood 3 sided box. Only the eating counter top is solid.
(Edited)
TILEWORK: Jeremy's quote seems high to me, but I am no tile expert. It may not be. You know far more than I do if this is a reasonable cost that keeps us within the original budget.
I will call for another estimate for the tile. He works, like other construction trades, on materials cost plus a sq. footage price for installation. Since we don't use tile in any of our models I have no good cost comparison. The two shower stalls are about half of the cost which is a lot in comparison to the fiberglass shower stalls we normally install. Unfortunately with the windows you can't go that way. I though that if I could find a shorter fiberglass surround and just have tile above that it would be a considerable saving but I'm still looking.
If need be, I will check on this quote with my sister's husband, who is a finishing contractor who is licensed here in CA, FL, and HI. He has had experience with tile subcontractors in all three states within the last ten years. As beginners, your Rolodex file, I realize, may not be chock-full of subcontractors, but perhaps, another bid or two may be in order?
Jeremy may also be thinking artistry for the bathrooms. With our budgetary considerations, I am thinking simple and less artistry, as artistry comes with a price.
At this point, not knowing what the budget is, I am thinking simple. I've had time to think about his white tiles (definitely not what I was thinking of ) with tiles of bright yellow as accents. I think I want to stay with mellower, muted colors. I may tire of "punch colors" and regret them in a short time.
My office palette is found in the attachment here and I find these Hawaii orchid colors very soothing and familiar. I have not tired of them in ten years.
(Edited)
Aloha,
D
>> Denise wrote on 2/24/04:
Hi D&T,
Tomorrow I should get an estimate of flooring from carpet barn. Their per sq ft. cost for the clear maple ended up being 19 cents per sq. ft less than Amigos or or LL.
We did find the clear finished T&G however it is much more expensive than the knotty pine we have been using on the other houses and would add about $5,000 to the cost in comparison to drywall on the ceiling. What would you like to do?
I still havn't received prices from contractors wardrobe.
I received an estimate from Jeremy for all the tile work. It is $12,885 labor and materials. This includes granite tile on cooktop, backsplash, bathtub deck. This doesn't include the solid surface tops.
The snow came in very wet and it has been warm so it didn't stick. Hopefully tomorrow's storm will be the same.
Regards
Denise
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| Thursday, 26-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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Denise & D: Main Floor Bath; Kitchen Cabinets & Fireplace
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Kitchen cabinets in right proportion and with bridges.
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Fixtures:
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Fixture above table/pit.
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Hi D&T
Attached is a drawing of the lower bath vanity using the same cabinets as the kitchen cabinets. Marilyn added a double medicine cabinet mirror combination that matches. Do you want that or do you want a plain mirror with the medicine cabinet to the side?
Also attached is her drawing of the window wall in the kitchen.
We had a light rain last night and it started snowing around 5am this morning. It is supposed to continue Denise and off through tomorrow.
Denise
____
blue = Denise's replies
purple= D
Hi Denise,
Thank you for these most helpful drawings. We were trying hard to make heads-or-tails out of your word descriptions. As good as they were, between us, we came up with two different conceptions. So the drawings you have sent have made the whole process easier to visualize, allowing us to make more accurate visualizations and better decisions.
MAIN FLOOR VANITY: I would like a simpler look. I found an affordable black framed mirror over at Crate and Barrel's that will fit the Tatami theme well. It will be flanked on each side by either Japanese-themed sconces or hanging fixtures, which are unbelievably affordable, but attractive.
So the answers are:
1. We will procure the mirror and the bathroom vanity-area fixtures, as well as the fixture above the tatami room table and pit. We just need to finalize our decision on whether we want sconces or hanging lights and then let Peter Fulkerson know where to put the wiring.
Peter plans on finishing the rough wiring Monday March 9th so he will need wiring decisions before then.
2. A simple, no frills medicine cabinet remains on the left side wall (on the side of the closet). We will shop for it and procure it ourselves. Custom cabinetry and mirrors are costly and we are being single-minded in cutting down superfluous costs in order to keep us closer to the original budget that we had based our house-building decision on. We don't want to be at the "Designing on a Dime" (HGTV) level, but more like "Sensibly Chic" where the designers emulate a terribly expensive look for a real world cost.
Besides, excessive cabinetry will give that corner an oppressive, crowded look and detract from the focal point which is the stainless steel sink.
I agree but passed on Marilyn's idea anyways.
3. We saw the Kohler stainless steel sink in one of the "vignettes" at Home Expo and it is a striking beauty. It will provide a dramatic look to that corner of the Tatami-themed bathroom, sunk as it will be into the black granite slab. (So let's pare down the cost of custom cabinetry for the vanity-mirror and light fixtures and put the extra money into the slab instead).
Still havn't heard from your granite person.
4. Also, would you make sure that they DO NOT mount any drawer or cabinet pulls or handles? I would like a clean, uncluttered look. No pulls; no handles.
These cabinets do not have finger edge pulls but they should not be difficult to open. The picture of the kitchen cabinets you gave me mounted the door pulls horizontally allong the bottom edge which minimized the clutter. No pulls it is. That is something you could always add later if it was needed.
I will comment more about the seemingly high cost of the tilework elsewhere. I want quality, simplicity and basic. If artistry is driving up the cost, then we need to rein it in.
KITCHEN CABINETRY: Please thank Marilyn for her efforts. She has done an excellent job. A few corrections that may or may not affect her depictions. The kitchen window does not have four windows, but THREE.
1. The cabinetry with the mirrors is definitely out of proportion. The central area where the mirror-backed shelves is WAAAAY too small. May we stretch the whole shebang out further on eac side to allow for more space in the middle? OR, smaller cabinets, perhaps? The cabinets will mainly be used as storage for utilitarian, everyday glasses, so width is not so critical. (The dishes and plates go in the drawers next to the dishwasher) The mirrored area will be for crystal, echoing the crystal chandelier in the dining area.
It REALLY is way too compressed.
I think the compression and unbalance has to do with that extra window she put in. We all thought when we measured that 18" cabinets left a larger mirror space. I will recheck the measurements tomorrow.
2. What happened to the matching wood bridges between the two cabinets to integrate the look? Maybe she needs to swing down to Home Expo to see what we're talking about?
She has them but her drawing program wouldn't put them in. She works Friday through Tuesday so I'll get back with her tomorrow and see if she got it to work.
Cabinetry in right proportion and with wood bridges, top and bottom. Middle shelves will be adjustable and in glass.
3. I hope Marilyn will be sending us drawings of the island soon. We really are at a loss there, as far as visualizing her vision.
I sent the drawings of the island with a reply to T's email this morning but I'll attach them again to this email.
Hopefully, this frank clarification is helpful. Thank you for sending these to us. So much easier to see things "in pixels"...
Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow....and fill up the lake.
What is going on at the house this week?
They have finished the upper deck all the way across and put up a temporary railing. We lost Monday for exterior work but they finished some things inside.
Tuesday and Wednesday the roof was dry enough to continue working on the overhangs. Today was too snowy and wet for outside work.
Yesterday they were also working on the fireplace framing and the window cutouts. I forgot my camera yesterday but will take pictures tomorrow.
Next week looks clear and dry. The big push now is to get the overhangs done so we can put the roofing on. As soon as the roofing is done and the electrical and plumbing rough are done we start drywall.
With the help of good weather I am hoping we will be ready to start drywall about the 10th.
Aloha,
D (I'll be posting this on the website with pictures to help you visualize my thoughts here)
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Hi D&T,
The fireplace has been framed as we discussed. There is a hearth about 6" deep and 18" high. The fireplace wall goes straight up to the ceiling. The fireplace has been ordered and will go about 4" above the hearth. How do you want to finish the hearth and wall? It is probably something we should have discussed with Jeremy. I know you have a painting that goes above the fireplace which will be replaced by a plasma TV later on. One suggestion is tile around the fireplace and hearth with the rest drywall. Would you like me to have Jeremy take a look at it and suggest something?
They have started the plumbing and electrical rough which has to be inspected before drywall starts. We are pushing them to be ready for inspection at the end of next week.
Have a good day,
Denise
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Hi, Denise!
You answered my last question. So THAT's what's going on at the house... Hope the inspection goes well. We noted on your web site that you are aiming for completion by May. We hope this will happen as you've planned and coincide seamlessly with the successful sale of the RR House.
The biggest unknown in the future schedule,and one of my biggest frustrations in construction scheduling, is the drywall. Frustrating because you can't do anything on the inside while drywall is going on and try as we have we can't seem to speed up that phase of construction. It is a multistep process which has to dry between steps. We aid the drying process with a number of heaters. This time of year it should take 4 weeks. I will send you a tentative calendar of house events this weekend.
Again simplicity and cost considerations -- without compromising quality and the custom look -- is operative.
FIREPLACE: We absolutely do not want a heavy look to the wall. Plain drywall as you suggest with an attractive, non-fussy mantle (with an electrical outlet for Christmas lights and future TV and an art light for the picture if Peter can't put a spot on it from the sloped ceiling). Beauty is in the proportions so, it is a matter of placing things on that vertical dimension appropriately. Be aware that we do not want the plasma TV so high that it is uncomfortable to watch it from the two winged-back chairs in that area. (It is not a large space)
Yes, the PEACEFUL RETREAT picture will go above the mantle for now, until like DVDs, plasma screens drop in price. We are not TV fiends (well, except for HGTV and Sunday Morning), so the TV can wait.
As far as tile, something that looks good but not out-of-line in cost. How about matching Black Galaxy tile placed on the diagonal like the one in the picture? It will echo the diagonal tile in the kitchen. (I'll post this on the site)
Tiles on the diagonal.
I think that would look nice. I will have Jeremy plan a simple design using the black tile.
With the new "elegant" door off to the side, I am carrying out that theme, if you will. Quality, patterned carpeting (thank goodness, not a large space) and two classically attractive, comfortable-for-reading (and occasional TV viewing later) wing chairs in colors that harmonize with the kitchen's black-and-gold theme.
Patterned carpeting in colors that harmonize with the kitchen's black and gold.
Not at all rustic (except for the picture, which is framed in matching gold).
A PEACEFUL RETREAT
WHILE I AM DISCUSSING THAT READING AREA, please note the following:
To whittle cost, we've decided to bring up (recycle) two of our tall, 37.5 inches wide mirrored, metal (gold colored to match the gold trim in the kitchen) curios down here that echo the shape of the cathedral window and the windows on the door that exits the reading area. Both will be on the main floor and will serve as metal remedies to neutralize the not-good-qi in those areas.
- One will be placed on the wall between the booknook below the stairs and the door that comes into the kitchen from the garage. So no electrical switches should be placed there. An outlet is needed for the curio, but that can be placed in the area of the booknook.
- The other will be in the kitchen area, between the door from the garage and the elevator closet. So again, no electrical switches should be placed here. That curio is identical to the other and will also need an outlet for its fixture.
Noted. I will look at those areas tomorrow.
Again, thank you for all that you are doing for us, Denise. I hope you are having fun doing it. It's the journey that counts, although getting to the destination is also important. You've managed to meet the critical deadlines, and you have gained our confidence.
I met with Shirley from Carpet Barn to do a rough measure for flooring and to pick her brain. She explained that vinyl flooring is actually more expensive than carpeting when you consider that you have to cover the OSB (current floor) with a subfloor before laying down the vinyl. So, for example, it would look nicer and be less expensive to run the purple carpet into the bath closet. She says she has a nice rich deep purple for us to look at. For the stairs to the garage she suggested a commercial carpet. She thought that a commercial carpet in earth tones would be good under the tatami mats. The laundry/bath however should be vinyl.
Aloha and hugs,
D
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| Tuesday, 24-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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From D to Denise: Flooring, Tatami, Appliances, Metal Tiles
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Hi Denise,
Flooring: We picked up five 3' X 6' tatami mats and one 3' X 3' mat over the weekend. Having these will help the exacting layout of the spaces and pit, as well as creating the lid to fit.
I'll bring up a purple rug sample next trip up. We checked out the carpeting section of Home Expo to get ideas for the sitting room, stairs and loft.
I look forward to seeing that clear maple sample. Hopefully, Maggie at Carpet Barn will be able to beat the down-the-hill prices. I would much prefer that the business go to Big Bear business people, whenever reasonable and feasible.
Lighting Fixtures: We looked for light fixtures for the Tatami Room as well.
Kitchen Appliances: T was able to check out kitchen appliances. Very possibly we will be picking up the stacked washer-dryer as well.
Metal Tiles for the Kitchen: At Home Expo , we priced the metal 6" X 6" decorative tiles and took more pics for Jeremy.
We've certainly had WEATHER this week and more to come on Wednesday. Hopefully, all of this precipitation will fill the lake up and the trees will that much needed long drink of water.
Do drive with care; take your time and enjoy the wintry landscapes. Good to hear that you spent some quality time with Laird!
Again, thanks!
D
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| Saturday, 21-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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From Denise to D: Flooring, Mirrored Closet Doors, Carpeting
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Hi!
We were surprised yesterday morning when we went down and had to stop to put on chains. It is snowing off and on today, Mike said, but tomorrow they are expecting 10-12" and another 3-5" Monday. We get a break on Tuesday but Wed another storm is expected to add another foot and continuethrough Friday. Too early to think about spring I guess.
We went to Lumber Liquidadors and Amigos to look at flooring. A very nice selection. Our grandson enjoyed walking on all the samples. We found a nice simple maple with little grain. Their prices are good but I will check with Maggie at Carpet Barn. Last time she was able to match their price.
Friday I faxed Contractors Wardrobe for a quote on all the wardrobe doors. Hope to have something when I get back.
With tomorrows' expected storm we will probably head back Monday morning instead and take hwy 18 through Lucerne Valley - a bit longer on the roads below but a much shorter drive with chains.
In the meantime we are enjoying playing with our grandson.
Keep a lookout for your purple carpet. So far I've only found one that is deep enough but I havn't put it next to the photo.
Have a good weekend.
Denise
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| Friday, 20-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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From D to Denise: Flooring, Mirrored Closet Doors, Sink & Faucet
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Hi Denise,
Here's wishing you a productive weekend. I heard you'll be "shopping" for construction-type materials, specifically laminate flooring at Lumber Liquidators.
* Our preference is light-toned maple. Something closest to Pergo's Moonlight Maple. Simple. Not heavily-grained. Clean look. http://www.pergo.com/PergoDesign/US/US_Product_List/1,1042,USA-0-LT,00.html
* Last night, I was checking the website for the mirrored doors :
Contractors Wardrobe Inc. http://www.cwdoor.com/index.html
26121 Avenue
Valencia, CA 91355
661/257-1177
Cost may be cut by ordering the three sets of doors directly, bypassing the middle-person:
-- Brittany Slider in Aztec Gold: http://www.cwdoor.com/products/wardrobe/brittany.htm
-- Installation instructions for the Brittany -- PDF file: http://www.cwdoor.com/instructions/wardrobe/brittany.pdf
* We picked up the following at Lowe's:
-- Kohler Timpani Stainless Steel Sink: http://www.us.kohler.com/onlinecatalog/detail.jsp?item=175902
-- Moen One Handle Kitchen Faucet with Pullout Spout for Utility Room.
* This weekend we are checking out tatami mat sources. Hopefully, we'll be able to pick them up, too, to make absolutely certain that the layout works perfectly.
"Le bon Dieu est dans le detail."
"God is in the details."
(Whatever one does should be done thoroughly; details are important.)
~Mies van der Rohe, architect; Michelangelo; Gustave Flaubert
* Again, if there is anything in particular that we should be mindful at this time, let us know.
Aloha,
D
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| Thursday, 19-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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Denise's & D's flurry of e-mails & pics from Jeff & Claudia
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Desired closet construction: Left side of mirrored closet
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Frontal view
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Right side of mirrored closet
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Before I took off for work, there ensued a...flurry of e-mails between Denise and me, regarding the Murphy bed closet's door framing. When you "make your bed and sleep in it," essential details must be clearly communicated in order to be properly executed.
Building a house is not for the faint of heart or the quiet of mouth who are hesitant in communicating their wishes and needs. Such hesitation can cause risks like getting your heads chopped off with bad, direct-hitting qi/chi...resulting in an increasingly faint beating of one's heart.
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Urgent re closet (Murphy bed)
Hi D&T,
We are working on framing the closet and need your OK before proceeding.
The opening for the 4 doors (per BC glass) is 12'x 96 1/4" On top of this opening is a header which provides the structural support for the door. The header sits on the new wall on the left but on the right side we need to put a 3" support for the header. I mention this because you said you didn't want a return. This small return is neccessary.
In the measurement for the bed on ebay the depth was given as 15". Allowing 2" for clearance and 3 " for the track would be a depth of 20" leaving 3" for the window frame. Is this OK with you? If we go to a depth of 23" that takes it to the edge of the door with no room to finish out the frame.
Denise
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Hi Denise,
I was just ready to sign off to go to work, so I'm glad I checked on this.
The three inch allowance is for futon (thick Japanese comforter) and pillow space, so the bed can remain "made" between uses of the bed -- sheet, futon comforter, top sheet, pillows, instead of storing these elsewhere.
Also, there is a Feng Shui consideration:
The Murphy Bed concept was do-able because we are short people. Our heads cannot be under the closet overhang. It does the same thing as a beam over the bed. It "severs." Bad energy (qi/chi) coming directly down, chopping our heads. So we knew we'd have to sleep lower in the bed instead of right at the top. The 3 inches would help if we bolted it down slightly off the wall to accommodate the covers and more sleeping space.
Feng Shui Lesson: "A beam causes sha qi to come down directly on the person below it." (Forget the hocus-pocus, superstitious remedies like bamboo flutes, crystals, and windchimes.) "The only way to lessen its detrimental effects are to drape heavy fabric from the beam in an appealing way, or put a false ceiling in." ~ Source: C. Shaul
Sha Qi: Killing energy or harmful energy that flows in a straight line. When we feel that we are being attacked by something invisible we are feeling the existence of sha qi. Sheng qi (Healthy qi) comes in a meandering path. More info here on beams by Jane Alexander.
I don't know what a return is. I am looking at our recently installed mirrored doors. Yes, on the left side is a wall. Across is a header on the ceiling. On the right, the gold header directly abuts the wall. There is a piece of wood -- no more than 1/2 thick -- that runs down the wall. Is that the return?
Aloha,
D
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(From Denise)
Glad I caught you before leaving. OK. we will go the full 23". Mike says we put a small trim at the door edge for finish instead of the normal framing. I will call Ray and let know.
Yes the 1/2 inch would be part of the support for the header. The difference is that your walls have studs so the header goes in between. Since we have solid panel we have to go 3" out to support the header.
Have a good day!
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Hi Denise,
Now it is my turn to send pics to you. Here is my closet as I sit here. Hope these help you and Craig and construction folks in seeing what we are talking about...
Thanks for getting Mike the Contractor involved in avoiding problems.
Hi ho, hi ho, off to work I go, with Aloha,
D
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After a long, non-stop day at work, a business lunch, getting my feet soaked and cold from unsuccessfully fording a puddle-river from yesterday's storm (short legs), and a late dinner with another office associate and friend, I was pooped when I got home, but not too pooped to check my e-mail.
This welcome note from Jeff (and Claudia) awaited me; it was the sweet dessert of my day. I replied to it right away. This morning, another e-mail, arrived, this time with pics, taken by Jeff, of our weekend together.
E-mail is a marvelous blessing in our lives!
_________________
T & D:
It was great to see you again, and thanks for the thoughtful gifts. You two are the greatest. We wish you lived across the street here in Oregon.
We got home yesterday late afternoon. The drive from Las Vegas to Reno was a desolate one. I can't believe how much "nothing" is out there. The drive from Reno the Redmond was about 9 hours. We encountered rain and wet snowfall part of the way, but like a horse heading for the barn, we couldn't wait to get home.
I'll send some pictures I took as soon as I download them into the computer.
Jeff and Claudia
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Hi Jeff & Claudia!
We loved our time, however brief, with you. We also so enjoyed seeing Oscar and Lucy again. They are such dear, sweet dogs. All of you are again being greatly missed.
Thank you so very much for the lovely dinner at the Iron Squirrel. It is a special place to enjoy with special people as you two are to us.
There are some great shots of us at http://ah.fotopages.com/ Just scroll down to last weekend. I just love digital photography. So good for memories and so easy to share back and forth!
It was good to hear that you arrived home, safe and sound. Did you successfully retrieve Claudia's pillow on the way back? Nothing like going home to your own bed, especially when it is in your gorgeous home. Thanks for sharing your house pictures with us. Now we can visualize where you are, as
well as your home.
Love,
D
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D:
I was just downloading some pictures when your e-mail came. We had a wonderful time with both of you this past weekend, and enjoyed seeing your home take shape. You took some great shots. I have attached a couple I took.
I also included some shots of Oscar's indoor plumbing.
Jeff
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| Wednesday, 18-Feb-2004 00:00 |
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From Denise to D&T & replies back by D
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Murphy bed up...
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Murphy bed down.
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Brittany Mirror Doors in Aztec Gold
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Blue-grey = Denise
Purple = D's replies
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[D]
Good morning, Denise!
It's me, again. This time replying to your most recent e-mail.
Hi D& T,
After doing a walkthrough with Scottie the plumber today I started working on the Murphy bed closet.
My first question is on the mirrored wardrobe doors. Three doors would leave only a 4 ft. opening which is not big enough for the bed. I checked with BC glass and they said that 4 3ft. doors would work xxxx all opening with the two center doors open ing out.
[D]
Darn, you put effort and time in re-inventing the wheel. In my last e-mail to you (RE: Peace, Monday, Jan 16, 2004), I had communicated what the door arrangement was for the Murphy bed closet:
"5. Murphy Bed: As T explained, essentially we need a regular but shallow closet with four 3' mirrored wardrobe closet doors to house the Murphy bed. No, it is NOT one of those expensive units that comes with fancy cabinets. It's our do-it-yourselfer version. The two middle doors open to the side to let the bed down. Please refer to the plans I drew for the Tatami Room."
So yes, the conclusion that Craig and I independently came up with are one and the same: four 3' mirrored closet doors with the central two sliding open for the bed.
Nevertheless, your effort and time is appreciated and not wasted; it was/is a learning experience that may have application for future houses you build. Nothing like "learning by doing" (Cal Poly's motto).
The estimate for the 8x12 doors is about $779. They come with Chrome&shiny brass trim or Satin and bronze or white. Which do you prefer? For all rooms?
[D]
We've had two closets done by the same gentleman down here who does EXCELLENT work. We have been more than 100% satisfied with his work and his fair and affordable prices. Specifically, he used "Better" (mid-range) mirrored wardrobe doors (Brittany Slider in Aztec Gold) by:
Contractors Wardrobe Inc
26121 Avenue
Valencia, CA 91355
661/257-1177
www.cwdoor.com
Yes, we want these AZTEC GOLD doors for all three closets: the loft bathroom closet, the main floor's entrance closet, and the Tatami Room's Murphy bed closet. We are not just doing one set of doors, but three. One order, one delivery, one installation for what could be three separate orders, deliveries, and installations.
(Editorial change: Perhaps directly contacting the manufacturer in Valencia is a good idea? )
The ebay picture with exact measurements was great. I used my floorplan program and put a bed of those dimensions in the spot indicated in the plans. The one corner falls within the center square 16" deep hole. What do you think we should do? I thought of making the shelves smaller and 30" doors so that the bed corner would fall on the first mat but then realized that two 30" doors doesn't leave enough space either. Is there a solid cover that goes over the square that would provide support for that corner?
[D]
T was able to win the bid on the eBay Murphy bed yesterday. So plan on it and its dimensions.
Not to worry about the hole, Denise, as we will be getting a half tatami (3'X3') that is attached to a supporting (MDF?) board that will be used as a lid.
What is necessary is a supportive lip along the four sides to support the board securely -- much like the one that is already holding up the present "lid" over the hole. We just have to make sure that the tatami lid lies flush with the other tatami mats, but for seasoned construction guys, that is easy to figure out. If they need help, I'll be happy to provide a sketch as it is no different in design that my parent's Tatami Room in Hawai'i.
A cloth tab is used to pull the piece up.
The other point was whether the closet goes up to the ceiling or has a "pot shelf" space. Because of the 12' span it would be best to attach to the ceiling for better support.
[D]
I would have preferred a "pot shelf" so we could use that space for a rope light for indirect lighting up there. But if it requires attachment to the ceiling for better support, I can't fault that need.
About the recessed square.(now in the right place) Do you still want it 16" as indicated on the plans? There will be a crawlspace access which can be covered with carpet (soft on the feet). How do you want the sides finished? wood?
[D]
Again, unfortunate that wasted effort happened due to a lack of coordination between designer and construction folks. Happens a lot on HGTV.
Fred at first seemed dubious, but you and I were not. After all, what's a tatami room without tatamis? We would've found a way. I am happy at this point that it was do-able.
Yes, my parents had carpet lining the floor and sides. And it did make it more comfy. Their "pit' accommodated a table for eight, and it also made a great playpen for the little ones with the table removed.
That's all for now.
Regards
Denise
[D]
Again thanks for directing the show there.
I just wish I could be there full-time to help you, just as Jeff and Claudia were up there at their site, every day for the construction of their house. Unfortunately, we haven't yet earned our retirement and freedom.
I will be content (and grateful) that we have the Internet so I may be "virtually" there, thanks to your diligent communication with e-mails and pictures. It is the next best thing, and your efforts are much appreciated.
I will be on the alert for any other situations that could be averted. We don't want you and Fred to have to pay for anything more than you have to, either! A win-win-win for us, you and subcontractors is always best. And more combined intelligences is always welcome.
Have a great day up in heavenly Big Bear. It's gray down here, and I hope these clouds will bring the needed water for our lake and trees...
Aloha and hugs,
D
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